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Installation and pairing

A remote kit is wired at the fan, not at the wall switch. Most of the work happens inside the canopy. Budget about 30 minutes for a first install.

Read this first. Ceiling fans and their wiring operate at mains voltage. Switch the circuit off at the breaker and confirm the fan is dead before you remove the canopy cover. If you are not confident working at a ceiling outlet, have a licensed electrician fit the kit — the wiring itself is straightforward, but the height and the voltage are not worth gambling on.

You will need

  • A ladder or a stable platform, plus a second pair of hands if you have one
  • Screwdriver for the canopy screws
  • The wire nuts supplied with the kit
  • Your phone — to photograph the wiring before you change anything
  • The battery specified on your product page, fitted in the transmitter

Before you start

  • Note your kit model: FAN-TT53 and 53TMINIR28 pair by DIP switch; JF018 arrives pre-programmed.
  • Keep the printed wiring diagram that came in the box beside you.
  • Check you have room inside the canopy for the receiver.
Step by step

Fitting the receiver

  1. Isolate the power

    Switch the circuit off at the breaker, then confirm at the wall switch that the fan and light are dead. A remote kit does not bypass a switched outlet, so the wall switch has to be on for the fan to work afterwards — if it is off, nothing you do at the canopy will help.

  2. Photograph the existing wiring

    Before you disconnect anything, take a clear photo of how the ceiling wires and the fan wires are joined. It is the fastest way back if a wire colour surprises you.

  3. Remove the canopy cover

    Undo the screws and lower the cover carefully — the fan is still hanging from its bracket, so support it as you work.

  4. Set the pull chains before wiring anything

    Leave the fan's pull chain on HIGH and the light's pull chain on ON. The receiver then takes control of both, and speed is set from the remote instead of the chain.

    This is how the kit is designed to work, not a fault. If a pull chain is left off, the corresponding function will not respond to the remote.

  5. Identify the two sides of the receiver

    One side takes the wires coming from the ceiling; the other side feeds the fan and the light. Match by colour, following the diagram printed on the receiver.

    SideWiresConnects to
    Input WHITE, plus RED or BLACK The house wiring coming out of the ceiling box
    Output WHITE, BLACK, BLUE The fan and light wiring (WHITE common, BLACK fan, BLUE light)

  6. Join the wires

    Use the supplied wire nuts. Match each wire to the same colour on the other side, twist the nut until it is firm, then give each wire a gentle tug to confirm it is held. No bare copper should be visible outside a nut.

  7. Set the DIP switches (FAN-TT53 and 53TMINIR28 only)

    Both the transmitter and the receiver carry a bank of four small switches. They must be set identically — that pairing is what stops your neighbour's remote from working your fan. Kits ship with all four switches in the same position, so if you only have one fan, leave them alone.

  8. Position the receiver and route the antenna

    Rest the receiver inside the canopy where the cover will not press on it, then lead the antenna wire outside the canopy. An antenna folded up inside the metal canopy loses most of its range — this causes more "the remote only works close up" calls than any other single mistake.

  9. Close the canopy and restore power

    Refit the cover, check nothing is pinched, then switch the breaker back on.

  10. Pair and test

    JF018 is pre-programmed — press the remote's buttons and the fan should respond. On FAN-TT53 and 53TMINIR28, hold the transmitter close to the fan and follow the printed pairing sequence; power-cycling the receiver at the wall switch first clears any previous pairing.

    Test all three speeds, off, and the light. If the fan has a reverse switch on the motor housing, check it still works — the remote does not control it.

  11. Mount the wall cradle

    Screw the cradle to the wall near the fan switch, at a height you can reach. Keeping the remote off the fan blades' path is worth the two minutes it takes.

If something is not right

Quick checks

What you seeMost likely causeWhat to do
The receiver beeps but the fan does not turn The receiver has power and signal, so the fault is on the output side Re-check the WHITE / BLACK / BLUE output wires and their wire nuts
The remote only works when you stand under the fan The antenna is inside the metal canopy Route the antenna outside the canopy
Nothing responds at all Dead battery or the wall switch is off Fit a fresh battery of the type stated on the product page; check the wall switch
Pairing lost after a power cut The receiver's memory was cleared by the outage Repeat the printed pairing sequence with the transmitter close to the fan
The light switches but will not dim The lamp is not dimmable (or the kit is a switch-only model) Use a dimmable LED or CFL, or an incandescent/halogen lamp; JF018 does not dim at all
Fan speed does not change The fan's pull chain is not on HIGH Set the fan's pull chain to HIGH and the light's to ON
Still not working? Email [email protected] with your SKU, order reference and a photo of the wiring inside the canopy. We answer directly.
Wall controls

Wiring a wall control instead

A wall control (BY061, and the BY061 + MINI R28 kit) works at the switch box, not at the ceiling. If your fan is switched on at the wall today, this is the route to take.

Read this first. This work is at the switch box and involves mains wiring. Isolate the circuit at the breaker and confirm the circuit is dead with a tester before touching any conductor. If you are not confident working with mains wiring, have a licensed electrician fit it.

  1. Isolate the circuit

    Switch off at the breaker and test at the switch box. Label the breaker so nobody restores power while you are working.

  2. Remove the existing wall switch

    Take the plate off, unscrew the switch, and photograph the wiring before you disconnect anything.

  3. Identify the two switch wires

    The wall control is connected in line with the fan supply, using three conductors: the two that fed the switch, plus the connection the control needs to sit in the circuit. A neutral wire is not required at the box.

  4. Set the DIP switches before you close up

    Both the wall control and — on the kit version — the receiver carry a bank of four switches, and they must be set identically. Set them now; they are not accessible once the plate is back on.

  5. Fit the control to the box

    Connect the conductors to the terminals, seat the control into the box without trapping any wire, and screw the plate on.

  6. On the kit version, fit the receiver in the canopy

    Wire the mini receiver between the supply and the fan as shown on the printed diagram, guide the antenna outside the canopy, and set the pull chains: fan to HIGH, light to ON.

  7. Restore power and test

    Test all three speeds, fan off, the light button and the main switch. On a fan with a reverse switch on the housing, check that still works — the control does not manage reverse.

If nothing responds

  • Confirm the breaker is back on and the connection is tight.
  • Check the DIP switches match on both units where there is a receiver.
  • Confirm the fan is a 3-speed AC fan with a four-position controller.

If the light will not dim

  • The lamp is the usual cause: non-dimmable LEDs and CFLs switch but do not dim.
  • Try a dimmable LED/CFL or an incandescent lamp to confirm the control.
  • Flicker on LED lamps usually points at the lamp rather than the control.
Still not working? Email [email protected] with a photo of the wiring at the switch box and inside the canopy. We answer directly.
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